#17: Pop-ups are my new hobby 🌮

Dōzo Y Toro Taco Pop-up, U-pick strawberries, a corndog appearance

Apr 29, 2025

You’ll be happy to know that last week I was back to my usual bullshit and thus went to the Dōzo Y Toro Taco Pop-up.

The pop-up featured dishes from Chefs Perry Saito & John Gamble of Dōzo as well as Chef Hector González-Mora, previously the genius behind Noche Bruta (RIP). I hadn’t had the chance to try Dōzo on it’s own yet but I’ve been a fan of Chef Hector since his Chilito Tacos pop-up days. Excited to see he’s still in the Charlotte food scene mix.

If you haven’t been to Dōzo, it’s located right next to Restaurant Constance in Wesley Heights. Their space is located inside City Kitch—a shared commercial kitchen where you can order food from multiple menus ranging from Queen City Cheesesteaks to DK Malewa Congolese Cuisine.

If you’re expecting an Optimist Hall type vibe, it’s not that. While Dōzo has it’s own corner carved out inside, the other restaurants/businesses do not and so people are coming in a ordering off of screens and then picking up food in the back. The result is a little chaotic, so the ambiance isn’t amazing. We were able to snag a seat at the Dōzo counter after waiting it out a bit and it was a better atmosphere back there. Plus, it’s pretty fun to watch the chefs do their thing up close.

We ordered one of everything on the menu, except for the Yakitori, which was devastatingly sold out. Here’s a quick rundown:

SC Gray Tile Fish Ceviche ($15) - Local gray tile fish, lime, jalapeño , avocado, Bull’s Bay sea salt, fresh chips
Beef Piccadillo Empanadas ($7) - Ground beef, fingerling potatoes, spices, Aji verde
Katana taco ($6) - Braised beef, gochujang, truffled cheese, avocado, pickled lime
Carnitas taco ($5) - Orion beer braised pork, salsa verde, cilantro, onion
SC soft shell crab taco ($16) - Orion beer battered soft shell crab, apple slaw, green garlic avocado crema

What I want to talk first and foremost is that Katana taco.

This taco, and I’m not being hyperbolic here, was maybe one of the best tacos I’ve ever had in my entire life. It was everything you want in a taco but kicked up about 10 notches.

The braised beef was melt-in-your-mouth tender and the gochujang gave it a nice level of heat. The truffled cheese felt like a nod to a birria taco. Then there were elements that remind me of Bahn Mi. These weren’t listed on the menu but I clocked scallions, carrots and cilantro.

I had to stop myself from eating halfway through because I wanted to extend the experience of eating that taco for as long as possible. It was such a genius, seamless blend of latin and asian flavors and wish I could go order it again right now.

The ceviche was another big hit for me. It was exactly what I want in a ceviche. The fish was fresh and the flavors were bright and acidic, with punches of spice. The fresh tortilla chips were perfectly crispy and salty. My only complaint is that I wish I could have eaten more of it, like an entire bowl.

I also surprisingly enjoyed the soft shell crab taco. Soft shell crab, as a concept, has always freaked me out. Something about the whole consuming-the-shell-of-what-can-only-be-described-as-a-giant-sea-insect thing. But I saw Dōzo post on Instagram a pic of these little crabby guys being picked up in Murrell’s Inlet, SC and I wanted to give it a go.

The experience was much less harrowing than I expected. The texture wasn’t off-putting at all. It just felt like I was eating delicious beer battered crab. I also loved the green garlic avocado crema paired with it.

Soft shell (bottom right), Katana (top), Carnitas (left)

My favorite part of the event was honestly sitting at the counter and getting to watch the tortilla chips getting fried up, the soft shell crabs getting dipped in batter and each ingredient getting carefully placed on the tacos.

At the end of the first big rush that night, the chefs took a breather and sipped some well-deserved beer out of plastic quart containers. Pop-ups are not for the faint of heart. But anyone could tell there was a sense of satisfaction in the work they were doing.

I’d love to see more Charlotte chefs do more collabs because I think that’s when the food is sometimes the most exciting. It inspires new ways of approaching the cuisine they cook on the daily and it just seems like a lot of fun.

I’m now even more motivated to properly try Dōzo and I hope Chef Hector is planning on making more appearances, especially if they include those Katana tacos.

5 things I consumed this week in Charlotte

Huitlacoche & Fish tacos ($4.50/ea) and a “Skinny” Margarita ($12) from Bakersfield. Got these after running the Elizabeth 8K on Saturday morning (who am I). Shared some queso, too, which is still great despite no longer having the option to add pickled jalapeños. Also, can we come up with a different name for skinny margs? It’s 2025.
Half scoop of Brambleberry Crisp ($4.50) from Jeni’s. A quick pit stop after celebrating Indie Book Store Day at Park Road Books. I tried a different flavor last time, involving rhubarb and raspberry, and it was a mistake. I didn’t play games this go-around and stuck to my all-time favorite.
A “Under the Water Tower” Beer (free) from Lost Worlds Brewing. Enjoyed at 9:30 a.m. after running 5 miles. This was released specifically for the Elizabeth 8K and I was shocked that I actually liked it. It had some citrus notes and no gross IPA taste. I don’t normally order beer but I would happily get this again.
Glass of sparkling chenin blanc from Substrate. Swung by on Friday night to see some friends, who brought Hawthorne’s Pizza along with their toddler who showed me all of her Peppa Pig toys. Always love their wine selection and very appreciative of the low key vibe.
5 pounds of strawberries ($3.99/lb) and a corndog with fries ($5.99) at Hall Family Farm. Super cute farm in SC. No reservations required and they had a ton of kids activities. Haven’t had a corndog in years and it SLAPPED. Petitioning to bring them back. No clue what I’m going to do with all these strawberries, so send me any ideas you have.